Flyers' Hints and Tips
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The elevator is a good place to start because it is quite simple
to perform and really get the whole ethos of 3D flying across. Put
simply this move will involve the model decending almost vertically
with as little forward motion as possible hence the name the
elevator.
Setup
Your model will need to have a relatively aft C of G with
relatively large control throws. Some models will perform this
better than others and it is all really down to the overall wing
loading of the model i.e. size versus weight. A large dimater prop
with low pitch is also a big help to keep air flowing overthe those
surfaces. This is appliacable to all 3D flying. |
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Execution
In you first practice runs it is a good idea to gain a
reasonable altitude. Remember you are used to “flying” your model
and as such watching your model descend vertically is somewhat
unnerving the first time around. OK so to enter the move we point
into wind and cut the throttle to idle, allow for the model to slow
up considerably and at the point where the model will typically
stall gently apply and hold full up elevator. Now where most
people initially go wrong with this is in not holding full up
elevator which will cause the model to drop its nose.
Two very important point to remember.
(1) steer with the rudder not the ailerons. This is probably one
of the most challenging things to get your head around initially
but this is how you must direct the model.
(2) Use your ailerons as little as possible and only for
balance. Remember steering left will mean less airflow over your
left wing as it is travelling less distance and as such less lift
therefore it will drop. Right aileron will counter this and vice
versa when turning right.
Control
A little extra power may be required to keep the nose up but not
too much and don’t get too panicked if the model feels a bit
wobbly. Most will encounter a little wing rock whilst some will
feel a lot more stable than others. Try this a few times trying to
stay with it for as long as possible obviously taking into careful
consideration the fact that you are approaching the ground at all
times.
Another point worth mentioning is that should your model
immediately spiral out of control time and time again and does not
respond to your immediate inputs it is probably too heavy or simply
does not have the control throw for this type of flight. A good
model will do this almost effortlessly with next to no wing rock
requiring very little control input.
This manouver is really a natural progression from the Elevator
and with these 2 omes the basic foundation for 3D flying.
The objective hear is to stop the plane fomr decending whilst
maintaning the high angle of attackc as seen with the elevator.
Infact you should be looking for a slightly higer Angle of attack
than with the Elevator. The result is highly with the model being
dragged through the air at around 45 Degrees traveling at an awe
inspiring slow speed which simply defies gravity.
This is really the litmest test for how good a model is for 3D.
A good model will exibit little to no wing rock and feel very
stable something which you will find on all Extreme Flight planes
due to the ultra low wing loading amongst other things. The new 88"
Yak is easily the best model I have ever seen for this requiring
little to no input correction and the highest angle of attack
imagineable. You can see this on the following link which shows the
Yak performing Harriers both upright and inverted.
Setup
All key point mentioned in the Elevator also apply here however
some models require the addition of a particular setup reffered to
as "spoilerons". Typically this only applies to out and out Funfly
models which have a huge fat wing but it can add stability to
models with a normal wing section too and so can be beneficial
whilst practising.
"What are Spoilerons"
Put simple when you apply elevator either up or down both
ailerons will move in the same direction. You will see both rise
when you pull up and both fall when you push down.
See you transmitter manual for settup instructions here looking
to set ailerons up on a switch binding them to the elevator.
Remember make sure you can turn it off quickly and
easily, Some people preffer a sprung switch which
literally has to be held down in order to activate it.
Experiment with different amounts of travel starting with small
increments and go from there. 5% is often all it takes but i have
flown models with 100% travel coupled with the elevator.
Execution
Simply enter the manouver as you would the elevator, bleed of
all forward speed and hold in full up elevator. Once settled apply
power to the point that the decent of the model stops. Once you hit
the right balance the model will very slowly crawl forwards with
it's nose at roughly 45 degrees.
Sound simple huh, well the tricky part is in getting the angle
of attack right and not letting the plane stand upright. Each model
varies slightly but you will quickly get a feel for where it sits
best. To achieve this it is necessary to constantly blip the power
and work the elevator, typically between half and full
deflection.
Important points to remember
(1) The same rules apply as with the Elevator. Use rudder to
steer not ailerons, ailerons are for ballance
only.
(2) Remember, no matter how good a model you have it will be far
more unstable in this attitude than during normal flying and watch
out for the wind. If you are comming into wind and you turn to fly
up wind you will lose a huge amount of lift. Most of the time it is
enough to just add power but be aware.
(3) The final point to mention once you get the hang of it is
that wing rock can be symptomatic of CG. The model may harrier but
with a slightly forward or Aft setup you may find more stability
and less wing rock. Also on this note, by sending regular blasts of
air (Blipping the throttle) you will get overall better control of
the model and reduce wing rock.
Once you have mastered performing this upright try doing it
inverted. All models will experience less wing rock when inverted
as the rudder gets direct airflow however, remeber the actual
rudder input is reversed and can cause instability. Practice high
and do figures of 8 once you get it right this manouver looks
amazing.
Basically as the name dictates you are hanging the model on the
thrust generated by the prop. Performing this manouver down on the
deck is probably one of the best feelings you will get in RC Model
flying, it looks great and really wows the crowd.
Setup
A rearward C of G is always helpful as are big control surfaces.
You will also need a good power to weight ratio and if performing
this manouver down low a reliable engine. One thing which is always
worth spending time on is your throttle setup. Try and get it to be
as linear as possible, when the servo is at 90 degrees you should
be at exactly half throttle. Also try and use an arm which is
similar in length to the arm on the carb this keeps everything on a
1/1 geometry and helps to achieve that linearity. Finally you don't
want a linkage with lots of play it should be nice and respensive.
Time taken here will really pay off at the filed believe me.
Execution
The first hurdle is getting your entry right, even with the best
models out there getting it wrong will mean you will have a fight
on your hands, sticks in corners and often simply not enough
control authority to get it to stand upright.
There are a few ways to acheive this but lets start with the
easiest one first. Fly a slow tight circuit and position the plane
where you want it, basically you want an imagineary box where you
will attempt to perform the manouver, if you get it wrong go around
again. This is actualy great practice for flying generally,
position and control, you will soon get it. Remember the
closer the easier but be responsible here, it is easy for the model
to start travelling towards you or the flight line so allow for
this and also give yourself some height to recover from roll outs
etc.
So you have the model where you want it, flying slowly away from
you preferably into wind. I say slowly because if you are hammering
along you will pull up and climb out, essentially what you are
looking for is the same kind of speed as you would have when
entering an Elevator or Harrier (remember I said these were
the bedrock for all 3 manouvers)
Now hold in full up elevator adding power until the model is
upright, at this point back off the power making sure there is
enough thrust so that the model does not decend. Again blipping the
throttle will help as will a well setup throttle linkage.
Most models require fairly significant input to keep them
upright and typically they will want to pull right and forward,
therefore most of your input will be left rudder and up
elevator.
The other factor is Torque; as the prop spins it will make the
aircraft rotate in the opposite direction, to counter this you will
need to input right aileron. Some aircraft will require near full
deflection at all times to prevent this. Unless of course you want
to perform the next move of course.
This move is basically a rotating prop hang. As mentioned above
the torque from the engine working in one direction will also want
to rotate the plane in the oposite direction. Remember Einstiens
theory that each and every force has an equal and opposite reaction
well this is it. Fortunatley there is a great deal of resistance
preventing the rotation of the wings so instead of the 3 or so
thousand Revolutions that the prop does each minute we only
get a handful, which if you get it right looks great.
The Setup
Pretty much the same as above but I would like to add that Expo
on the Rudder has really helped and hindered me on this one. Play
around with more and less as it is important for you to be quick
with your corrections. I personally find it easier with
less rudder Expo. Try your normal setup for 3D and go from
there.
Execution
Entry to this manouver is identical to the Prop Hang but as you
get the model vertical, rather then adding right aileron you allow
the plane to rotate. You should be able to get about a 1/4 of the
way before you loose but when the belly of the plane is facing you
that is when it gets really tough. Forward is backwards and
backwards is forwards. Really the only way to refine this move is
practice but the one piece of advice i can give you which will be
of big help is steer towards the low wing. So as the model is belly
in if the left side drop give left rudder and vica versa. A calm
day is also really helpful for this one but ultimately it is a case
of practice makes perfect.
The Waterfall